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Le Giubbe Rosse, the quintessential literary café in Florence

Le Giubbe Rosse, the quintessential literary café in Florence

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I feel a deep sadness every time I pass by the piazza della Repubblica; the modern and air-conditioned buildings and its terraces do not allow the contemplation of at least four classic splendorous cafes in the city: Le Giubbe Rosse, Gilli, Donnini, and Paszkowski. It is almost a total eclipse; there is no room for bias. As a general rule, the tourists are the ones using most of the modern facilities in town. Based on my regular visits to the premises of Le Giubbe Rosse, on the «outside» old terrace and in the interior you will always see mature local Florentines taking Amaro, Negroni or simply a cup of coffee. It touches me deeply that there are still some genuine places in this city. A city that increasingly chooses to please tourists instead of respecting its legitimate and long-standing culture.…

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Florence Cocktail Week 2019, fancy a drink?

Florence Cocktail Week 2019, fancy a drink?

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Following the success of previous editions, Florence Cocktail Week 2019 is back in May for a week dedicated to custom cocktails. The event, which runs from May 6 to 12, is promoted by Paola Mencarelli and Lorenzo Nigro and will feature masterclasses, roundtables, and tasting sessions at 30 cocktail lounges around town with notable bartenders such as Santa Rosa Bistrot, Mad: Souls & Spirits, Winter Garden Bar, La Menagère, and Rasputin.

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Trattoria Sergio Gozzi: authentic Tuscan «casalinga» cousine in the heart of Florence

Trattoria Sergio Gozzi: authentic Tuscan «casalinga» cousine in the heart of Florence

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This family-run trattoria, semi-hidden in Piazza San Lorenzo, shows a lot of stickers from Tripadvisor, Yelp and all of those platforms, which prepare respectable reviews of commercial establishments for tourists to visit in droves. The number of stickers on the door normally corresponds to the length of queuing. However, such claims seem to me of doubtful value, as I never had much faith in the reviews written even by acquaintances. «Casalinga» is related to the sort of cuisine, in this regard, not only homemade and Tuscan, but also highlighting the quality of the food, rather than the presentation of the dishes or the decoration of the premises. Trattoria Sergio Gozzi displays an interior design with a genuinely rustic and modest personality. The menu of the day is brief but compelling. Affordable prices.
Trattoria Sergio Gozzi (since 1915), piazza di San Lorenzo 8R, 50123 Florence | Open only at noon, no reservations | Best after 2:30 p.m.

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Gosh: cocktails & pink flamingos in Florence

Gosh: cocktails & pink flamingos in Florence

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Taking a cocktail surrounded by pink flamingos is precisely what happens in Gosh, the coolest (and a bit pretentious) cocktail bar in Oltrarno. I like to ascertain if its decoration is the result of an in-depth and well-paid interior design studio or simply due to the exquisite taste (or not) of its owner. In fact, it is noted that the owner of Gosh, Alexander Vartivarian, comes from the fashion world (he worked for Elie Saab and was trained in Polimoda). In Gosh there´s vintage furniture and the original cocktails are based on ginger, spices, flowers and mezcal, all served in metal jars, in my opinion, with too much ice. Not only the decoration of the place is the choice of Alexander himself, but also the menu and the music — «Gosh» is actually the name of his favourite song. Aperitivo, snacks are served between 18 and 21 hours. Cocktails are better when in twilight, in its relaxed atmosphere. They also offer boring cocktails without alcohol.
Gosh – Via di Santo Spirito 46R – Florence – from 6p.m. to midnight, even later on weekends.

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Spaghettini al pomodoro at Osteria-Ristorante Fratelli Briganti

Spaghettini al pomodoro at Osteria-Ristorante Fratelli Briganti

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The Osteria-Ristorante Fratelli Briganti has been recently renovated, I do not know how it looked like before, but this is how it looks like now. Any case, in this family run restaurant the appearance is the least important, in fact, what matters is the exquisite service, and above all, the quality of the homemade dishes. According to my local confidant, it is a restaurant commonly visited by journalists and by theatre and cinema-goers, as it is open until late. Its atmosphere is very familiar; one feels like being at home. “In the past, Florence was full of places like this one, but they have been disappearing slowly… this has its positive and negative sides, as always”, she tells me. Nevertheless, beyond these nostalgic perceptions, the best dish in this restaurant is the spaghettini al pomodoro, one has to try them at least once in a lifetime!
Fratelli Briganti – Piazza Giovanbattista Giorgini 12/R, 50134 Florence

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Warning! EUR150-500 fine for eating on the streets of Florence

Warning! EUR150-500 fine for eating on the streets of Florence

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Florence wants to restore the decorum of the city taken off by tourism. Thus, Dario Nardella — mayor of Florence — has recently imposed a new city regulation, which daily from 12 to 3 p.m. and from 6 to 10 p.m. prohibits sitting down to eat on the sidewalks, in front of stores, and private homes in four historic central spots: Via dei Neri, Piazzale degli Uffizi, Piazza del Grano and Via della Ninna, all located within the Unesco zone. The fine will range from EUR150 up to EUR500 per «eater». The stores show already a summary of the mandate in Italian and English by a poster placed in the shop windows. Florence is one of the most visited Italian cities. This will be a future example for other cities affected by the same touristic symptom, if this municipal ordinance has positive results. The norm will be in force from September 4, 2018, until January 6, 2019.

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Cantinetta Antinori: Tuscan wines and culinary delights

Cantinetta Antinori: Tuscan wines and culinary delights

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The art of making wine has its guild in Florence since the Middle Ages: “Dell’Arte dei Vinattieri,” in which Giovanni di Piero, the first member of the Antinori family, was registered in 1385. Following this tradition, in the Cantinetta Antinori, you can see the symbol of the craft guild. The Cantinetta is elegantly arranged in a room overlooking the central courtyard of the fifteenth-century Palazzo Antinori located in the historic city centre. The restaurant is open to the public for lunch and dinner. As a tradition, it is nowadays still possible to do the Antinori wines tasting — either by a bottle or by a glass —. The cuisine offers a selection of Tuscan specialties, which are prepared with products from the Antinori farms in Tuscany and Umbria. The menu is configured depending on the season, out of respect for the tradition of Tuscan cooking philosophy where every product from the land must be eaten during its natural season of matureness to taste all the splendor of its flavors entirely. For each dish, the personnel recommends the Antinori wine that suits the best.
Cantinetta Antinori – Piazza degli Antinori 3 – Florence

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Focacce di funghi e gorgonzola and Bolgheri wine at Foccaccine Bondi

Focacce di funghi e gorgonzola and Bolgheri wine at Foccaccine Bondi

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Although located in Via dell’Ariento, at the heart of the vibrant street market of San Lorenzo and next to the central market of Florence, Foccaccine Bondi is not typically crowded, so you don´t need to queue for its delicious focacce di funghi e gorgonzola (2.5 euros) with a glass of Bolgheri (3 euros). In Bondi there is always plenty of room to sit and astonishing decorative elements at which one could stare while lost in an unconscious state of introspection, to which I confess I surrender very often. Above all, I love its melancholic and nostalgic air of village tavern, which in Florence occurs (thank God), quite constantly. Such traditional interior, along with the decoration, looks as if the place was frozen in time. But the best is its senior and affectionate service.
Foccaccine Bondi – Via dell’Ariento 85R – Florence

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Florence from above at Se·sto: exclusive ‘aperitivo’ with a view

Florence from above at Se·sto: exclusive ‘aperitivo’ with a view

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As E. M. Forster famous novel A Room With A View, the Se·sto restaurant and bar unique location on the rooftop floor at the luxury hotel The Westin Excelsior in Florence provides a scenic view over the Arno River to the whole city and the surrounding hills. In the kitchen, Chef Matteo Lorenzini has created a menu based on innovative Italian cuisine with an international touch. The proposals for lunch or dinner are Mediterranean dishes made with fresh seasonal products accompanied by a great variety of wines. Se·sto also offers a wide range of cocktails served on the terrace, where you can also enjoy an exclusive Italian aperitivo while looking at the sunset. The selection of music ranges from nu jazz to lounge emphasizing the outstanding ambiance.
Se·sto, The Westin Excelsior, Piazza Ognissanti 171, daily aperitif from 7 to 9 p.m. (€ 21). Walk-in policy, reservations not accepted

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Arty cocktails at Antico Caffè del Moro in Florence

Arty cocktails at Antico Caffè del Moro in Florence

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Some venues of Florence became my favourites thanks to dating local guys. The Art Bar – Caffè degli Artisti – Antico Caffè del Moro is one of them. I believe locals are always the key to entering everyday life, anywhere. And, although those dates rarely succeeded, fortunately the places still endure. Despite usually crowded, it´s worth a visit just at Antico´s happy hour (6-9 p.m.), with fruit cocktails at 7 euros (10 euros after 9 p.m.). Customers range from American college students with their last generation iPhones, to gentlemen from the neighbourhood and residents in their early forties. Founded in 1926, it consists of a small room with ten round tables with candles, and the service (especially the girls) is charming. The buts? Cocktails sometimes look like fruit salads and the preparation of drinks takes its time.
Via del Moro 4 50123 Florence FI – open every day from 6:30 p.m. to 1 p.m. (Friday and Saturday until 2 p.m.)

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